Breakfast burritos are a legend at this Hermosa Beach restaurant – Daily Breeze
Culinary objects of desire are often accompanied by a line. And sometimes the experience of the line transcends the dish itself.
Do you remember – back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth – how crowds would gather at Krispy Kreme branches, waiting for the neon sign that read “HOT NOW!” » so they can buy a box of super-sweet, fatty donuts to take to the wage slaves in their prairie dog cabins? (They sell Krispy Kremes at Mickey D’s these days!)
Austin’s legendary Franklin’s BBQ is famous for its pre-dawn lines for smoked meats sold from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (or until they sell out). On Tuesdays, Anajak Thai in Sherman Oaks draws a block-long line for its legendary Thai tacos. On a Sunday morning, the line is nearly two blocks long at Courage Bagels in East Hollywood. And the crowds at Villa’s Tacos in Highland Park are immeasurable: they move in all directions through the mini-mall that houses this taco shop, a sine qua non.
And then there’s the breakfast burrito at Baran 2239, served on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. It’s a legendary South Bay creation that has managed to transcend the line. You must reserve your breakfast burrito online on the Baran Instagram page, starting Wednesday. (Apparently you can also call.) Walk-ins are possible, but with a wait of one to two hours. Although a line may exist, it is nominal. And the Burritos are… incredible!
If you go to Baran’s 2239 for dinner, you can enjoy fine plates of kingfish sashimi with crispy potatoes (a perfect combination!), coffee-glazed pork belly, and seared Hokkaido scallops.
Breakfast burritos don’t bear the slightest resemblance to these dishes. They arrive with so many layers of cover that they look like food in slavery. The tortilla wrapper is thick and appears multi-layered. It’s wrapped, jammed, filled with scrambled eggs, various cheeses, bacon, green onions and tater tots. Yes…toddlers.
The meatless burrito is essentially the same, but without the bacon. The chorizo burrito dazzles, filled with a hyper-spicy chorizo sausage that makes the pair of salsas that travel in plastic containers superfluous.
There is also a “Friday Special” which changes from week to week. And I should add, these breakfast burritos are big enough that you can start eating one in the morning, continue until lunch, and finally finish around dinner time. These are Jonathan Swift burritos – pure Brobdingnagian.
Baran’s has elevated the breakfast burrito to a new plateau of goodness. He’s come a long way since he was appointed to Tia Sophia’s, a New Mexican restaurant in Santa Fe, where the term was coined in 1975, codifying a dish that had been a standard morning option in local cuisine for centuries. years. And before it became a popular option at McD’s, Carl’s Jr., Sonic and more. Taco Bell finally embarked on the adventure in 2014.
And that might just be the sad form of the breakfast burrito, if Baran’s hadn’t needed to create a dish that could help the restaurant survive Covid. Diners had stopped eating in restaurants. Takeout has become the lingua franca of survival. And the breakfast burrito comes close to perfection when it comes to portable foods that taste just as good when you bring them home. Maybe even better.
Nowadays, Baran’s sells over a thousand breakfast burritos every weekend. A friend came to pick her up – and was told to go to Fire Tigers in Redondo Beach, which was apparently preparing for the overflow. And once you get home, assuming you don’t inhale it in the car, a dissection is worth it. This is an incredibly neat dish.
The tortillas are made by Mejorado, a master at creating wrappers with lots of texture and taste. The eggs are from Vital Farms – the yolks have a bright yellow that brightens the day. Oddly enough, there are exactly 13 tater tots in each breakfast burrito. Long discussions can take place to think about the meaning of this number, while reducing the little ones… from 13 to 12, from 11 to 10 and so on… with each bite.
Merrill Shindler is an independent food critic based in Los Angeles. Send an email to mreats@aol.com.
Breakfast burritos at Baran’s 2239
- Rating: 3 stars
- Address: 502 Pacific Coast Highway, Hermosa Beach (also: Fire Tigers, 1223 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach; 310-921-8293, www.tigresfuego.com)
- Information: 424-247-8468, www.barans2239.com
- Kitchen: Breakfast burrito
- When: Friday to Sunday only
- Details: Reservations very essential
- Prices: About $25 per person
- Credit card: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth the drive from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, if not exceptional. Worth the drive from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for worth the drive from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic.) 0 (Honestly not worth it. worth talking about.)
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