Fresh bread is great, but day-old bread can be even better | Lifestyles

As much as I love a loaf of rustic bread, with its tooth-grinding crust and tender center, it’s the handsome guys for a day that intrigue me. Here are the ingredients for a lush pudding, savory or sweet.

A savory bread pudding, packed with seasonal vegetables and spices, is a lot like a quiche, but easier and faster—no crust required. It’s just as delicious served warm as it is at room temperature, and can be made a day or two ahead, so it’s perfect for entertaining.

For the best depth of flavor, be sure to cook the vegetables in good butter long enough for them to release their juices, then let them cool before adding them to the pudding base.

A slightly stale, firm bread is perfect for a pudding. If it’s still fresh and soft, simply toast it lightly in the oven to dry it out a bit. This gives the pudding structure and stops it from getting too soggy.

Our local winter spinach is perfect for bread pudding. Grown in colder conditions, these spinach produce longer, sturdier leaves than spring varieties. They have more flavor because there is actually less water in the plant’s cells, which intensifies the taste.

Spinach also adds color and interest to the whole dish.

Take this basic recipe and vary the vegetables as they come into the market: asparagus, mushrooms, kale, collards, and squash all work well. (Tomatoes and cucumbers are just too juicy.) It’s also a great way to use up leftover cheeses: a good Parmesan, a good cheddar, an aged Gouda, a creamy goat cheese.

And don’t be afraid to spice things up. A shot of Tabasco, a spoonful of curry, or a dash of herbs can make this a breakfast or brunch-worthy dish.

Spinach Bread Pudding

For 4 to 6 people.

Make it the night before and have it ready for brunch the next day. It’s a luxurious use of stale bread, and you can vary the vegetables depending on what’s in season. From Beth Dooley.

6 to 8 oz day-old bread

3 tbsp. butter, plus more for the pan

1 small onion, chopped

2 tbsp. fresh spinach

3 eggs

1/2 tsp coarse salt

4 cups half-and-half or whole milk

1/2 tsp. teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

A generous pinch of nutmeg

1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme or 1 tsp. dried

1/2 tsp. Grated cheddar cheese, plus more for garnish

1/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese, plus more for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Tear bread into 1-inch pieces. If it’s fresh, place it on a baking sheet and lightly toast it. Generously butter a 9- to 10-inch baking dish.

Place a large skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Saute onion until soft, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the spinach and cook until just wilted, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and reserve.

In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, salt, and half-and-half, then pepper and nutmeg. Add bread, thyme, Cheddar and Gruyere cheeses, and sautéed vegetables and mix well. Carefully pour mixture into prepared baking dish. Top with additional cheese.

Bake until the custard is no longer runny in the center, about 1 to 1 1/4 hours. If the top gets too dark before the pudding is done baking, cover the dish with aluminum foil.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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