How Fast Food Is Getting Faster

NEW YORK — New York City’s new Chick-fil-A restaurant has everything you’d expect from a chicken joint: friendly servers, crispy fries and a line of hungry customers. There’s just one thing missing: seats.

The store, which opened in March on the Upper East Side, is the chain’s first to handle takeout and delivery exclusively. It’s part of a trend of smaller, takeout-focused stores that have boomed during the pandemic and remained popular, particularly among Manhattan’s coffee and fast-food chains.

Between 2019 and 2023, the average size of a commercial lease in Manhattan decreased by 17%, to 2,585 square feet, according to the CoStar Group, a commercial real estate data firm.

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The decline has been most visible in coffee shops, where Manhattanites have found themselves with fewer seats, said Gregory Zamfotis, founder and CEO of Gregorys Coffee.

“In many places, because of staff turnover or changes by other businesses to reduce seating capacity, people simply have fewer options for housing,” Zamfotis said.

It’s hard to pinpoint the extent to which coffee shops and fast-food outlets have gotten smaller. Many commercial real estate firms, such as CBRE and Cushman & Wakefield, track only a handful of small leases signed by these tenants each year. But real estate analysts, brokers and tenants all agree that retailers are downsizing.

“Smaller is better,” said Steven A. Soutendijk, executive managing director at Cushman & Wakefield. “There are a lot more tenants looking for smaller stores than larger stores.”

Benjamin Sormonte, co-founder and CEO of the Maman coffee and bakery chain, is one of those thinking small. Sormonte plans to open more miniature Mamans, aptly called Petite Mamans, after the first one opens in Moynihan Train Hall in 2022.

Smaller Mamans range from 350 to 800 square feet, while a full-service Maman can be as large as 3,200 square feet, Sormonte said. The smaller stores allow her to target customers on the go and give her more flexibility when looking for new locations, a crucial advantage given Manhattan’s historically low retail availability.

Buffalo Wild Wings, Starbucks, Blank Street Coffee and even Whole Foods have also announced or opened smaller, takeout-focused stores in New York City, in addition to their existing locations. Blank Street, in particular, was born out of the small-format model: Most of its stores are less than 350 square feet and are designed to serve customers at a rapid pace.

“Every retailer that’s trying this approach has both models,” said David Firestein, managing partner at brokerage firm SCG Retail. “Brands that have 10, 20, 50 or 100 stores are constantly looking at the model and constantly changing and evaluating it. That’s what good retailers do.”

Chick-fil-A has both cards up its sleeve on the Upper East Side, with its new mobile store on Second Avenue at East 80th Street, just a few blocks from a more traditional sit-down location on Third Avenue at East 86th Street. Jared Caldwell, the owner and operator of both stores, said he wanted the new store’s design to complement the first and accommodate the growing number of digital orders.

Small stores have another significant advantage over full-size stores: lower rents.

For example, Gregorys Coffee stores range from 400 to 1,800 square feet in Manhattan, Zamfotis said, and he seeks rents between $100 and $300 per square foot. In those ranges, the least expensive 1,800-square-foot store would cost him $60,000 more per year than the most expensive 400-square-foot store.

“It’s sometimes hard to justify paying those extra three, four, five hundred square feet for seats you don’t necessarily need,” Zamfotis said. “We don’t need a huge number of seats. We just need enough to accommodate some of the traffic that wants to stay.”

For coffee shops, the small stores represent a departure from the “third place” business model popularized by Starbucks, in which stores function as spaces separate from work or home where people can linger for hours, talking to friends and making new ones.

Third places can be anything—your hometown bar, a public park, even a fast-food restaurant like McDonald’s—as long as people are there to gather, says Kathy Giuffre, professor emeritus of sociology at Colorado College. When speed of service, short hours, or space constraints limit social gatherings, loneliness and isolation can increase.

“The profits are probably large in places where you can get in and out very quickly,” she said. “The social costs are invisible, but very profound.”

Zamfotis doesn’t think small-format stores spell the end of the coffee shop as a third place, though, even given Manhattan’s limited space and high rents.

“I’m a big believer in the future of third places,” he said. It may be a different version, he noted, “but they’re always going to exist because people always want a place to gather. And the coffee shop has always been that central meeting point for people.”

By 2024, The New York Times Company

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