I tried the best restaurant on a beautiful beach after its big change and ate “the best chocolate cake”

There is always a wonderful feeling of anticipation as you drive down to Coppet Hall beach in Pembrokeshire, through lush, sunny country lanes or across the irresistible sandy beach of Saundersfoot. The small and attractive cove has undeniable appeal, as you can park and almost always walk straight into the sea, depending on the tide, for a refreshing, invigorating swim or a brief dip.

The option of hot coffee and cake was always available, but if you were looking for something more substantial, the restaurant at the top of the bay, Coast, was always reserved for a special occasion with a top menu of range. Not that there’s anything wrong with high-end or tasting menus, but I always thought Coppet Hall was better suited to a place where you could have a quality lunch or dinner with a wider menu and it seems the owners, the Seren Group, who also run nearby Grove of Narberth, thought of it as a menu overhaul and a new name, Lan y Môr, has recently launched and they hope it will appeal to a “broader cross-section” of diners.

And after a dip in the sea recently, I was invited to try the new menu, newly and carefully pieced together by Seren’s director of chef, Hywel Griffiths, alongside head chef, Gerwyn Jones, and Hywel says about of the relaunch: “The location at Coppet Hall Beach is the perfect place for a thriving and fun restaurant, renowned for its easy-to-enjoy meals for all. I’m excited to bring my philosophy of fresh, sourced produce local, combined with great food in Saundersfoot.

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This is undeniably an A-star place to have a restaurant and before you even browse the menu, the views across Carmarthen Bay towards Gower will blow you away. My friend and I were lucky enough to have a clear, sunny evening where the blue sky hovered over the golden sand with the water sparkling in between. And it is in this sparkling water that much of this mouth-watering menu was captured. Carmarthenshire ‘frockels’ (crispy cockles), Carmarthen Bay lobster, fish of the day caught in Saundersfoot – all came from a stone’s throw from Lan y Môr, you can’t get more local produce than that.

Lan y Môr, Coppet Hall Beach Saundersfoot -Credit: Seren Collection

Lan y Môr’s menu also features a Gower salt marsh lamb burger, Pembrokeshire chicken and Snowdonia cheese cromesquis – a fried ball of breadcrumbs brimming with delicious topping – so don’t think it’s only fish! The menu is divided into small plates or starters, pasture, sea and land. The restaurant itself offers calming views with its floor-to-ceiling windows and there are splashes of rustic-chic coastal decor and modern Welsh influences to pierce a mostly elegant and streamlined appearance.

I’ve wasted enough time, so let’s discuss what we ate. Quite hungry after a dip, we decided to share a few small plates as starters. We had a portion of wholemeal sourdough with burnt leek butter (£6), Monkstone mackerel (£9) and, yes, of course, I insisted on the Snowdonia cheese cromesquis (£10). You can’t put a little fried sphere filled with cheese in front of me and expect me not to order it, I love that sort of thing.

What a great trio of choices, perfectly accompanied by my large glass of Rioja Mayela (£9) and the signature Lan y Môr mocktail (£8) – a tangy, tangy and utterly thirst-quenching drink that looked pretty too.

The sourdough, soft but springy as it should be, and the burnt leek butter took the simple snack to the next level. The fresh mackerel was a larger portion than I expected and came with fennel, watercress and sour cream. It was a silky texture with enough stiffness to bite into, the fennel wasn’t overpowering and the watercress and sour cream added a freshness to the whole dish. It was good. But, and I bet you’ve already guessed, the cromesquis were really the highlight of the first course. Not only were the crispy balls of hot, flavorful cheese an absolute dream, but they came with premium tomato sauce – the freshness of the tomatoes used was undeniable – and shreds of ham garnished the dish, not a paltry amount of shreds, there were enough to make a substantial starter dish and well worth the 10.

Snowdonia cheese cromesquis

Snowdonia Cheese Cromesquis I Could Eat Every Day

For the main course, we selected the fish of the day, locally caught sea bass. The price varies depending on the market price that day, but when we visited it was £25 for this main course. I also tried the Gower salt marsh lamb burger (£16) and alongside it we had fries (£6), hispi cabbage (£6) and Pembrokeshire new potatoes (£6) . It turned out we didn’t need that many extras, but I still wanted to get a good look.

My friend was in love with the sea bass, which came with a coastal herb broth, dashi leek and miso – like the mackerel, it was silky to the taste and there was no doubt it was as fresh as if he had just come off the net. The umami flavor of the broth and the crispness of the leeks on top made it a great all-around dish and the only complaint she had was that there wasn’t more.

Bar in Lan y MorBar in Lan y Mor

Fresh Saundersfoot Bay Bar

The Gower lamb burger came in a pretzel bun and was topped with mint onions and Snowdonia cheese – again the flavors were perfect and I loved the hard cheese and minced lamb offset by the pungent mint that passed through him. The texture of the burger itself was a little soft for my liking – I like a little resistance in my patties – but it was a great combo if you’re craving a burger done a little differently.

I have to say I found the side dishes really delicious, the fries are always good but those endless fries had the perfect crispiness. But I loved the cabbage – I really hope I’m the first in the world to say that phrase – the big chunks of vegetables were charred on a barbecue and drizzled with lemon, mint and cumin. This made me want to write down the method and use it at home forever. Same with the potatoes, it was a simple new potato but mixed with smoked garlic and thyme. Effortlessly unforgettable.

Just to add, we also tried the “arguably the best chocolate cake” for dessert, to share, £9. We couldn’t leave that statement untouched and to be completely honest, it was a damn good chocolate cake. The cake itself was so light and airy it could have floated, it had soft, spongy layers alongside ones that had a nice crunch. But it was the added extras that made the dish light and fluffy and big, round cherries dipped in delicious syrup. He was undoubtedly a serious contender for the self-proclaimed title. We finished with a coffee, they serve the local Gower brand, and not surprisingly the drink was good too. A full, even rich taste, not too fruity.

Lan and Mor

Simply the best view

A really good way to describe Lan y Môr is to emulate how I feel about its effortlessly unforgettable side dishes. The menu is excellent, the food is executed to a high standard and the ingredients are excellent, as is the location. I think the menu is filled with great dishes that can please all your tastes, from steak and burgers to oysters and truffles. I also think it’s priced from a fine dining experience to a great, reasonably priced dinner restaurant with unquestionably top-notch produce and skills.

Lan y Mor, Coppet Hall Beach, Saundersfoot

A selection of additional dishes from the restaurant’s new menu -Credit: Seren Collection

We went on a Wednesday evening and as time went on the restaurant became packed, but the service never let up. A friendly, competent and efficient team, more than happy to interview the chefs for my cabbage investigation. I will definitely add it to my list of must-visits in the southwest and you all should too.

Lan Y Mor is located at Coppet Hall Beach, Saundersfoot, SA69 9AJ and is open Wednesday to Saturday.

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