Popular Afro-Caribbean Market to Open Restaurant in Oakland

She ran Man Must Wak alone for the next decade, as a single mother, with the support of close family, friends and loyal employees. Early on, she heard people bet on how many months she could make it before closing up shop and moving back to Los Angeles. “I just had tunnel vision and focused on survival mode,” Amamgbo says. “It’s through tragedy or loss that you know who really cares about you.”

Years later, a lady from church told Amamgbo to go have coffee with this “really nice guy.” Amamgbo recognized Dennis Itua, a former client who had moved away for a few years. She liked his dimples and his creative side as an interior designer, but wasn’t convinced—“he was very quiet.” When they finally met, Itua said, “Just be your Oprah, and I’ll be your Stedman,” referring to the TV star’s longtime partner. A few years ago, when the real Stedman Graham walked into Man Must Wak, Itua happened to be in the store casually greeting the celebrity. The store’s customers were thrilled, and the story blew up on Facebook.

The couple married in 2017, and Itua has been an integral part of the business ever since. Along with their three boys: Chika Amamgbo, 22, recently graduated from Howard University, Lota Amamgbo, 19, is headed to SF State to study art, and Ero Itua, 20, is in film school in Los Angeles. They’ve all worked weekends and summers stocking shelves and bagging groceries. “We want to build a strong, solid legacy,” Amamgbo says. “You don’t have to work here, but it’s going to be something you can be a part of and manage.”

The new market near Lake Merritt will ultimately be three times the size of the original. Amamgbo took out an SBA loan to purchase the entire standalone building. The market itself is 7,500 square feet, the parking lot is 2,000 square feet, and they plan to build up, adding an extension and a rooftop deck. For now, they’ve started with a fresh coat of yellow paint and some shelving. Amamgbo’s nephew, artist Gabriel Olubori Babaoye, painted the mural on the front, inspired by an African woman wading through a bustling market. The big renovation is yet to come, but the vision for the fast-casual restaurant is a hot bar lined with steaming platters of grilled meats, fried rice, and more. So you’ll walk through the door, head to the hot bar in the center, wander left through the market, and grab a seat at one of the tables outside.

They plan to open the restaurant by summer 2025. Itua, the family’s chef, grew up in the hospitality business—his father owned hotels, restaurants and bakeries in Nigeria. He’s been cooking behind the scenes for years, handling all the prepared foods and catering. “It’s going to be a fusion of African and Caribbean cuisine,” Amamgbo says. “The best of both worlds.” She’s already talking about their jollof rice. “The best Nigerian jollof rice. Period.” Itua’s specialty is a whole fish that he seasons and grills “to perfection.” Jamaican favorites will include goat curry and jerk chicken, as well as spinach dip, okra dip and moi moi (bean pudding).

For longtime fans of Man Must Wak, it will be a treat to stop by and sample some hot food for the first time. And for a whole new crowd of Oakland diners, it’s a rare opportunity to sample West African home cooking in a central location. Michelin-starred chef Pierre Thiam, who was recently inducted into the James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame, says he can’t wait. “West African cuisine is finally being recognized around the world,” Thiam says. He points to restaurants like Tatiana in New York, an impossible-to-get reservation, and Ikoyi and Akoko in London, which finally earned Michelin stars, and insists that having an accessible market and restaurant in the heart of Oakland is just as important.

“She has a strong personality. She’s a queen,” he said of Amamgbo. “You have to respect that… The culture is so powerful, and it’s really a blessing for us as West Africans to have a place like this, and it’s a blessing for others who haven’t known it before.”

While the restaurant is being built, Amamgbo plans to throw the party. The new market is already fully open, and Itua will fire up the grill for more events in the parking lot this summer.

“We are your home away from home, a place where you feel loved and accepted,” Amamgbo says. “You are not judged for being too loud, because we are loud.”