Texas Barbecue Experts Reveal Their Cooking Secrets

If you’re looking to up your grilling game this summer barbecue season, you might want to listen to some tips from expert grill masters in Fort Worth, Texas.

Diners head to Panther City BBQ for the culinary talents of master chef Chris Magallanes and to Goldee’s Barbecue for the creations of James Beard Foundation semifinalists Jalen Heard, Lane Milne and Jonny White. Magallanes and Milne explain Texas barbecue and share their insights.

“Texas barbecue really focuses on the meats themselves, without relying too much on sauces or toppings to highlight them,” says Magallanes, who is also co-owner of Panther City BBQ. “Our barbecue is a look at what we grew up with in Texas: a strong mix of Texas influences, like our brisket guisada and our brisket elote.”

Across the country, there are a wide variety of barbecue dishes, including “tri tip on the West Coast, whole hog in the Carolinas, and the heavily sauced dishes of Kansas,” Magallanes says. “In Texas, there are several different styles that emphasize different cuts. There’s barbacoa and cabrito (goat) in the South, and more common proteins, like brisket and pork, that vary in flavor across the state.”

Panther City BBQ uses oak wood, which can add the desired flavor to home grilling. According to Texas-based barbecue fuel manufacturer B&B Charcoal, this wood “is the go-to wood that imparts a mild to medium smoky flavor without being overpowering.”

Home grillers should never rush into their kitchen, Magallanes says.

“Keep it simple and be patient,” he says. “Trying to create the next big barbecue trend can be disastrous. It should come naturally and get better with practice. Also, rest your brisket! Don’t ruin a 12- to 14-hour cook by being impatient and not giving it enough rest after cooking.”

All three chefs at Goldee’s agree that great barbecue happens when the chef takes his time and makes the process fun. Their restaurant was named the #1 BBQ restaurant in Texas by Texas Monthly review.

“While any meat can be delicious, depending on the cook,” says Milne, who also co-owns Goldee, “I recommend opting for thick, lean cuts with plenty of fat, especially with marbling for tenderness. Supermarket briskets aren’t typically aged as long because stores don’t preserve the meat the way suppliers do.”

When barbecuing brisket, “getting the right level of salt to season such a large piece is key, as is getting enough pepper to create a nice bark,” says Milne. “Other spices are less important, as they can lose their potency during long cooking and smoking, though they can add unique flavors that salt and pepper can’t provide. The key is to perfect the balance of salt and cooking technique, and then experiment with sauces, different finishes, and spices to enhance the other meats.”

Goldee’s is only open Friday through Sunday and offers a five-hour brisket class that must be booked in advance online for $700.

Panther City BBQ offers a monthly four-hour barbecue class for $200. Participants learn the entire process — the ins and outs of a smoker, wood selection, meat selection, cutting and seasoning — for cooking brisket, ribs and one other meat.

Grilling enthusiasts looking for a unique dip for their barbecue might want to try the following recipe for Goldee’s Secret Peach Glaze.

Ingredients:

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 1/4 cups rice vinegar

1 cup canned peaches

1/2 cup orange juice

1 1/2 cups white sugar

1/2 tablespoon garlic powder

1/2 tablespoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon mustard powder

1 teaspoon oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon ginger powder

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 heaped teaspoons kosher salt

Directions:

Mix all ingredients until peach is well incorporated. Bring to a boil in a saucepan to dissolve salt and sugar. Chill.