Longing for thorns
For husband and wife Amy Yimnoi and Big-O, A-Roi seems like a natural progression. They’re no strangers to the local Thai scene, having run Smiley Thai in Mt. Juliet and Poy Thai in Goodlettsville for a few years now. But A-Roi, their first foray into Nashville itself, is noticeably different.
What hasn’t changed is the duo’s culinary philosophy: Thai and Japanese dishes are still on the menu, along with drinks, sharing dishes and a sizable list of sushi and sashimi. They also remain focused on consistent service and reasonable, if not necessarily very low, prices. The real difference is the refined experience and execution, which makes A-Roi a welcome addition to Nashville’s list of trendy Thai spots.
On the one hand, A-Roi is refreshingly modern. Tucked away in a shady corner of McKissack Park, a few blocks north of Charlotte Avenue, A-Roi is sleek and sleek, yet down-to-earth. Huge windows bring natural light into the dining room, while shaded earth tones and intimate tables lend a comfortable ambiance to diners. The immaculate and eye-catching bar offers beer, wine, and soju as well as specialty cocktails like the refreshing baijiu-centered Tiki Tiki or the Golden Dream, which features hints of yuzu. Those who want a view of the kitchen while the woks are fired up can take a seat at the sushi station. Here, you’ll likely find executive chef and sushi expert Koji at work, cutting sashimi and occasionally looking up like a salmon-obsessed Captain Ahab checking on his crew. Pair this ambiance with a delicious, high-concept menu and you have a truly enjoyable experience, perfect for business dinners, date nights and casual get-togethers.
Massaman beef stew
Amy and Big-O had exactly this experience in mind when they decided to open. “We are passionate about making delicious sushi and Thai accessible to everyone,” they tell the Scene as a team, noting that A-Roi is not only focused on food, but also on creating a “welcoming space, where neighbors can gather, connect and enjoy memorable dining experiences together.” A-Roi, fortunately for Nashville, is already doing a good job.
But enough of the grandiose talk about the experience and decor. How is the food?
Crab noodle curry
Well, there’s plenty to go around. A-Roi’s menu is varied to say the least, but it’s imperative for both newcomers and returning customers to experience A-Roi’s starters. At first glance, you’ll be drawn to the standard choices: edamame (salt And garlic options), spring rolls, crab Rangoon and others. While these are all perfectly fine choices, even if not adventurous, I would be remiss if I skipped a mention of the fried dumplings. Filled with chicken and shrimp, they are lightly fried and served with a surprisingly delicate soy sauce. The dumplings, along with the gyoza and savory shrimp shumai, make A-Roi a top destination on a Nashville dumpling crawl. And it doesn’t stop there. Unpretentious izakaya mainstays like yakitori and ika maruyaki (grilled squid topped with teriyaki sauce) sit alongside bowls of tom kha and tom yum, while hamachi carpaccio (yellowtail sashimi with yuzu miso and jalapeño) constitutes a tasty element of Japanese haute cuisine.
Although A-Roi is a great option for an afternoon spent enjoying appetizers and drinks, we didn’t come alone to begin with. Aside from appetizers and a few rice bowl options, diners have two main options when visiting A-Roi: A-Roi’s “special dishes” (Thai and Japanese-style starters) or a wide range of fresh seafood options. When it comes to seafood, sushi and sashimi are the safest choices, whether the mood calls for fried sushi, tuna poke or fatty tuna sashimi. Omakase and seafood tours are also available, but be sure to check their availability. The kitchen works with a “reliable” distributor in Atlanta to ensure a weekly supply of fresh fish.
As for conventional Thai and Japanese dishes, A-Roi covers the basics and more. Find tonkotsu and miso ramen alongside yakisoba chicken, panang duck, pad see ew and the multicolored range of curries characteristic of the city’s Thai restaurants. But where A-Roi really succeeds is in doing the classics well without abandoning their authenticity. Concrete example: katsu curry. A lean cut of pork is fried golden brown, then served in a bath of Japanese curry. It seems simple enough, but often at other establishments I’ve opted for one and left disappointed – or worse, horrified. A-Roi offers both a juicy pork schnitzel that retains its crunch and a surprisingly complex sauce with warming spices and apple-like sweetness.
Crab Fried Rice
I will also mention the khao soi gai. Until A-Roi, I was convinced that I would never find a bowl of Thai noodles in Nashville that could truly rival the tiew gang of Degthai or Tom Yum Goong. But A-Roi’s khao soi gai is a whirlwind romance. I’m not quite ready to commit and say I prefer khao soi gai to Degthai’s options, but it’s a very close race. One spoonful takes you to a special place, where the deep flavors of coconut milk, curry and fresh herbs mingle with al dente noodles and a crunchy fried noodle topping.
For me, it’s fantastic. A new restaurant is making me question everything I thought I knew about Thai noodle soup in Nashville. It’s worth your time and money.
