Try the bold and generous Asian flavors of the new Makan restaurant
Chef James Wozniuk can’t get enough of stinky beans. You’ll find this bitter, nutty bean in Southeast Asia, where it grows on trees and, thanks to its high concentration of amino acids, gives off a smell reminiscent of methane gas. And you can bet you’ll find it at Wozniuk’s new Rutledge Avenue restaurant, Makan, in Sambal Udang Petai, a shrimp dish that Wozniuk affectionately calls “funky and spicy.”
These big, bold flavors are representative of the Malaysian cuisine Wozniuk offers at Makan. The restaurant pays homage to the cuisine of Southeast Asia, a region Wozniuk has visited often. His love of the food inspired him to open the first Makan restaurant, in Washington, D.C., in 2020.
Family ties drove him to open Makan Charleston. “I grew up in Greenville,” Wozniuk said. “My sister went to MUSC, I have a lot of friends here and my brother and his wife are here. … They just had a baby, so I wanted to be closer to my family and my niece to watch her grow up. It was a pretty easy decision to make.”
And while Washington, D.C., and Charleston are very different cities, Wozniuk said he’s confident the Lowcountry is ready for his Malaysian cuisine. He pointed to local restaurants like Xiao Bao, Beautiful South and King BBQ as places that have paved the way for Asian cuisine in the Charleston area.
“There were a lot of people who had already developed this style of cooking before us,” he said. “That gave us a little more confidence, knowing that people were really interested.”
Sip, share, savor
The Makan menu is divided into four accessible sections: kecil (small dishes), mee (noodles), utama (main dishes) and kuih (dessert). Wozniuk said the menu will change with the seasons and, hopefully, with inspiration from his travels.
“In a perfect world, I go to Malaysia once a year,” he said, adding that he would visit the country for two to three weeks to see new dishes, “hone in on all the flavours” and “eat everything”.
“On this last trip, I went to three new cities. The amount of food I ate was very exciting,” he said. And while he’s eager to recreate those dishes, he’s trying to take it one step at a time and get his staff used to the current menu before changing it again.
He added that customers are usually eager to explore the menu. He and his team can guide diners to dishes that may be more approachable if they are new to Southeast Asian cuisine.
“Depending on how adventurous they are, I would definitely start with the satay,” Wozniuk recommends. Guests can choose between chicken or paneer (fresh cow’s milk cheese) satay, served with peanut sauce, cucumber and shallot.
Wozniuk says Ikan Asam Pedas, a fish curry with a spicy and sour broth, okra and tomatoes, reminds him a lot of the South. “People compare it to gumbo,” he says.
He said Rendang Daging, a dried beef curry served with coconut, lemongrass, nutmeg and lime leaves, is “a must-try.” “You’ll see it all over the world in the best dishes. … It’s dry in the sense that it doesn’t have any sauce or meat juice like a regular curry, it’s just a little tighter, and all that flavor is cooked into the meat.”
Wozniuk has honed his cuisine over the years and Makan DC’s accolades, including two Michelin Bib Gourmands, are testament to his success. Much of this success could be down to first-hand Malaysian culinary experience.
“I have a lot of Malaysian cookbooks, but a lot of the dishes you actually see when you’re there (in Malaysia) aren’t mentioned in the cookbooks,” he said. “It’s just about understanding, ‘What is this? How did you make it?’ And that’s what I like.”
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