What is Chopped Cheese? And Why Is It So Popular in Denver?

It’s hard to go wrong with beef, cheese and bread.

Cheeseburgers? Magnificent. Cheesesteaks? Sumptuous. But a third member of this holy trinity has only recently been noticed in Denver and around the country: New York cheeseburgers.

Make no mistake: While it’s typically served on a bun or hoagie, the chopped cheese sandwich is not a Philly cheesesteak. While the two may be similar, the chop-cheese (as it’s also known) has its own rich history.

According to a New York Times in-depth look at the chopped cheese sandwich, this unique and satisfying sandwich was born in a Harlem deli called Hajji’s. Legend has it that a Hajji’s cook named Carlos Soto created the first sandwich sometime around that 20-year mark, though history is unclear about exactly when or why.

Eventually, the affordable, portable sandwich became a hit, popping up in delis across Harlem and the Bronx. Its appeal is obvious: ground beef and velvety cheese shredded together on a grill, then topped with onions, ketchup, mayonnaise, lettuce, and tomatoes. Pile it on a bun and voila, it’s done. Enjoy it on your walk to the subway.

Then came a turning point: In 2014, Anthony Bourdain briefly mentioned chopped cheese on an episode of his TV show, “Parts Unknown,” about the Bronx.

A group of Bronx teenagers munched on chunks of cheese while chatting with Bourdain about life in the neighborhood. Bourdain, a man well-versed in New York City eating habits, seemed unfamiliar with the sandwich, but he was smitten. As with many things Bourdain-related, enthusiastic gourmands latched onto this unfamiliar cultural artifact. Interest in the bodega staple grew throughout the city, and in the years that followed, it traveled with traveling New Yorkers.

That’s how Brian Murphy brought his vision of chopped cheese to Denver.

Murphy, a Denver-born New Yorker, opened Big Apple Bodega, at 2231 S. Broadway, in May. It’s a brick-and-mortar version of his food truck, offering a full menu of chopped cheese sandwiches. Each sandwich represents a little piece of New York, both in name and distinctive flavors.

For a classic chopped cheese experience, Murphy’s offers “The Sinatra.” It has all the right elements: melted American cheese expertly blended with heavily seasoned ground beef and grilled onions, along with ketchup, mayonnaise, lettuce and tomatoes on a soft but sturdy bun.

From there, the menu tours the region, from Far Rockaway (beef fajita, peppers, avocado ranch) to Hudson (Cajun seasoning, pepper Jack, green onions and chipotle ranch).