Best New Restaurants #5: The Aperture
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE VIOX
After several pandemic-related setbacks, chef/owner Jordan Anthony-Brown finally opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’ historic Paramount Square building. Four years in the making, The Aperture was worth the wait.
No stranger to fine dining, Anthony-Brown previously served as sous chef at Boca, and before that, sous chef at the Michelin-starred Rose’s Luxury in Washington, DC. He brings an eclectic balance to The Aperture’s menu, which draws on flavors from around the world. Mediterranean. Often these touches are subtle; cultured butter, just begging to be spread on airy focaccia bread, gets a smoky touch of za’atar seasoning. Lamb shoulder from Kentucky’s Freedom Run Farm is coated in harissa and served with a crispy Persian rice called tahdig.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE VIOX
Likewise, the sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and lamb merguez crumbles. Brined, poached and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves are eaten like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. Anthony-Brown has done different iterations of carrot in his various pre-Aperture pop-ups over the past few years and it’s hard to imagine one tastier than this one.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE VIOX
Seasonality plays a big role in everything the restaurant does, especially desserts. A key lime tart was topped with fresh winter citrus like blood orange as well as grated celery root for extra nuttiness. Given its seasonal trends and the playful imagination of Anthony-Brown and his team, it’s safe to say that The Aperture’s impressive initial menu will be the first of many.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE VIOX
For a restaurant so serious about exceptional food and wine, it’s refreshing to see that it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have quirky names like “#lemon” and “I’m Her.” The catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. The photos on the wall were taken by assistant general manager Trevor Biggs. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, although it’s bound to attract people from all over.
900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com