A neighborhood dining treasure like Summerlin-adjacent Other Mama doesn’t need to reinvent the wheel to stay relevant. But like any good relationship, “you can’t just put it on autopilot,” says chef and owner Dan Krohmer. “We have to continue, add new things. »
That’s the intention behind Other Mama’s recent refresh, where Krohmer expanded the Japanese and seafood-focused cuisine with new menu items, and added additional space for what he hopes will become a “weird underground boutique bar”.
“My first job was making sushi. We’ve always been kind of one foot in, one foot out, just because there are so many places around here that have all-you-can-eat food,” he says. “Now, with the additional space, we’re going to move the bar program here, and we’ll have more space to accommodate more sushi chefs. We really want sushi to be on the west side of town.
The reputation of Autre Mama’s raw bar has carried it over the past nine years. But Krohmer sees this refresh as an opportunity to reinvest. After juggling different projects in the past, the chef and restaurateur has moved back in to “perfect what we are currently working on”.
From a food perspective, that means more ways to enjoy Autre Mama. There are more a la carte options, more entrees, more sushi rolls, and more ways to attract the “fun, eclectic first date crowd.” But instead of using spectacle, Krohmer focuses on the essential.
“I eat differently these days. I’ve traveled a lot over the last 10 years and I love being somewhere like the Dominican Republic, where you just eat a fried fish with a little rice, a slice of avocado and a little salad,” he said. “The generation of chefs who try to impress everyone with their exceptional creativity is constantly dying. People want value. People want quality. People want to communicate. People want you to remember their name. This kind of thing is important.
Krohmer explores the classics in this updated menu, bringing back the Oysters Rockefeller ($21) for the first time in years. The original, he says, featured a rich helping of foie gras, but he evolves the dish with creamed spinach and pork belly. Pan-crisp king crab cakes ($23), with a glaze of cashew chili sauce, are another memorable addition.
“It’s also the first time we’ve had classic fried squid,” says Krohmer. “We always had our Rhode Island style and it was always very dressy. But it’s one of those things where I just wanted to make things more comfortable for newcomers.
And then there’s the presence of oven-roasted black cod miso ($17), a wildly popular dish that Krohmer has become more than a little familiar with over the years.
“I worked for (chef Masaharu) Morimoto for a very long time and probably placed 10,000 orders. Every person in Nobu has been making black cod miso for billions of years,” he says. “I didn’t want to continue like this forever just because I was stubborn. I was like, “I’m done with this!” Then I put it on special and it went crazy.
Krohmer refuses to classify his “sidecar bar business” in the vacant space next door as a true expansion, but it will increase Other Mama’s seating capacity by 50 percent. “It was like adding a new addition to your house, and all of a sudden you feel really happy to be home again,” he says.
He imagines the kitchen-style bar serving customers who come without reservations while waiting for a table. A well-priced happy hour is in development, and although the bar has a wall of TVs, don’t expect to see sports there.
“What I want to bring back is that old-school sushi bar vibe,” he says. “This is not a formal omakase or tasting menu. It’s just that I like whiskey. I love toro, and that’s exactly what I want.
OTHER MOM 3655 S. Durango Drive #6, 702-463-8382, othermama.com. Every day, from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
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